Successful seed starting for us gardeners is about combining the right timing, light, seeds, and seed starting mixes all together. And when starting seed indoors, we control every element, including the seed starting mix.

For modern homestead gardeners, a high-quality seed starting mix creates the foundation for strong roots, healthy growth, and resilient seedlings when starting seeds indoors.

While it can be tempting to scoop soil straight from the garden or grab any bag labeled “potting mix,” but seed starting mixes are a category all their own. They’re designed to support early plant growth using sustainable gardening practices that protect seedlings during their most vulnerable stage.

Click HERE for my Free Seed Starting 101 Guide
Or Register for my On Demand Class HERE

Why Seed Starting Mix Is Different From Potting Soil

Seedlings are delicate. In their earliest stages, roots are extremely fine, stems are tender, and plants are more vulnerable to disease and stress. Garden soil and standard potting soil are often too dense, nutrient-heavy, or biologically active for young plants.

A proper seed starting mix is lightweight, finely textured, and typically sterile, making it ideal for organic seed starting. A sterile seed starting soil is free from weed seeds, pathogens, and fungi that cause damping off—one of the most common failures when starting seeds indoors. And here sterile means ‘essentially sterile’ as it will still have some active biology. This clean, controlled environment gives seeds the best chance to germinate evenly and grow without competition.

Starting Seeds Indoors Means Replacing Nature

When we start seeds indoors, we’re asking plants to do something they were never meant to do. In nature, seeds germinate in living soil, supported by weather patterns, microbial life, and gradual environmental cues. By moving seeds inside, we remove them from their natural habitat and place them into an artificial one where light, airflow, moisture, and temperature are entirely controlled by us.

A thoughtfully designed seed starting mix helps replace what’s missing from nature by providing consistency and protection until plants are strong enough to transition into outdoor beds or richer soil systems. I mean, seeds want to grow— but we also want to give them the best chance to live their best lives.

Learn more about Winter Sowing your veggies, and letting Mother Nature handle the sunlight and temperature in my article HERE.

The Importance of Sterility in Organic Seed Starting

One of the most critical features of a seed starting mix is sterility. While biologically active soil is ideal for established plants, seedlings benefit from beginning life in a clean environment.

Using a sterile seed starting mix reduces the risk of fungal diseases and pest pressure without relying on chemical treatments, an important goal for gardeners committed to sustainable and organic methods. Once seedlings are established, beneficial microbes can be introduced intentionally through compost and transplanting into healthy garden soil.

Texture: Fine, Light, and Root-Friendly

Texture plays a major role in successful seed starting. Small seeds need consistent contact with moisture to germinate, and coarse or compacted mixes can prevent that. Seed starting mixes are screened and blended to create a fine, airy structure that supports healthy root development.

Coconut Coir: A Sustainable Foundation for Seed Starting

Many seed starting mixes now rely on coconut coir as a base ingredient, making it a favorite among gardeners focused on sustainability. A coconut coir seed starting mix offers good moisture retention, resists compaction, and maintains a neutral pH—ideal for young seedlings. Some gardeners have had minor issues with high salt content. To avoid that look for buffered or washed coir products. Always buy from a reputable distributor.

Because coconut coir is a renewable byproduct of the coconut industry, it aligns well with sustainable gardening practices and my modern homestead values. It also performs reliably in both commercial and DIY seed starting mix recipes. It does get shipped from far away, though…

Drainage and Aeration

Alongside coconut coir, seed starting mixes include materials such as perlite, vermiculite, pumice, or rice hulls to improve drainage and airflow. Whether you’re mixing your own soil or purchasing a ready-made blend, proper aeration prevents root rot and encourages strong root growth, two essentials for healthy transplants in any homestead garden plan.

Another way to encourage strong roots and start seeds is through the SOIL BLOCKING method.

Consistent Moisture for Indoor Seed Starting Success

Maintaining consistent moisture is one of the biggest challenges when starting seeds indoors. High-quality seed starting mixes absorb water evenly and drain excess moisture efficiently. This consistency is especially helpful for gardeners managing many trays in their indoor seed starting as part of larger homestead garden planning efforts.

Low Nutrient Content Is Intentional

Unlike potting soil, seed starting mixes are usually lower in nutrients. Seeds contain the energy they need to germinate, and excess fertilizer can burn young roots. This low-nutrient approach supports organic seed starting by encouraging roots to develop fully before feeding the plant.

As you can see below, I do add some micro-nutrients to my own seed starting mix. I find this especially helpful for seedlings that are living inside for more than 6 weeks (tomatoes, peppers, onions). Nutrients can be added later through diluted liquid fertilizers or during transplanting into garden beds as well.

Seed Starting Mix

4 parts coconut coir
2 parts mushroom compost or 1-2 parts worm castings
2 parts perlite
1/4 cup blood meal
< 1/4 cup bone meal
< 1/4 cup Azomite (aka rock dust)

SOAK COCONUT COIR FOR AT 2+ HOURS PRIOR TO MIXING

*I mix this in a large tote with a snap on lid to maintain moisture.

This is different than my soil blocking recipe, which is heavier on binding materials.

If the idea of DIYing your seed starter is too much – I highly recommend and will use in a pinch one brand. ProMix uses high quality ingredients and organic slow release fertilizers.

For modern homestead gardeners, predictability matters. A well-designed, sterile seed starting mix reduces variables and makes troubleshooting easier. When soil structure and moisture are consistent, it’s easier to adjust light, temperature, and airflow to meet plant needs.

A seed starting mix isn’t just dirt, it’s a carefully planned growing environment. For gardeners focused on organic seed starting and sustainable gardening practices, choosing or making the right mix is a foundational decision. Strong plants begin with strong roots, and strong roots are nurtured by the right mix.

And remember, seeds want to grow!

Dig Into Seed Starting!
Michelle

The post The Most Important Aspects of a Seed Starting Mix (and Why They Matter) appeared first on Forks in the Dirt.

I have many other private gardening and homesteading classes scheduled for Local Garden Clubs and Master Gardeners as well. If you are interested in having me speak, I am taking reservations for next winter and spring now. Please email me at michellenbruhn@gmail.com if you’re interested.

You can also see a full list of my class topics HERE.

2026 Public Gardening Classes + Events Calendar

Jan 10^th 9am-1pm
WBL Farmers Market
at the WBL High School Details Here

Feb 4^th 6-8pm
DIY Herbal Salve Making Class  
at Anchor Coffee House Register HERE

Feb 9^th 6:30-8pm
Companion Planting
at Mendota Heights Garden Club
(No Registration needed, at the Historic Du Puis House)

Feb 14^th  9am-1pm
WBL Winter Farmers Market
at the WBL High School Details Here

Feb 17^th 6-8pm
Companion Planting for the Home Gardener
Mahtomedi District Center
Mahtomedi Garden Club Register HERE

Feb 27^th 1 – 2pm
Companion Planting
on the Green Thumb Stage at the Minneapolis Home + Garden Show

Feb 28^th   1 – 2pm
Companion Planting
on the Green Thumb Stage at the Minneapolis Home + Garden Show

March 3^rd 1-2pm
Herb Gardening
at the Hudson Garden Club at the Phipps Center
RSVP with kswisherhhgc@gmail.com

March 4th
Seed Starting
on Twin Cities Live

March 18^th 6:30-8pm
Vegetable Garden Planning
at Anchor Coffee House Register HERE

April 8^th   6:30-8pm
DIY Grow Your Own Salad Bowl Class
at Anchor Coffee House Register HERE

May 18^th   6-8pm
Vegetable Garden Design
at the Lakeville Area Garden Club

Dig In,
Michelle

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OK, so I have a thing for books…

Gardening “How To” books, Ecological Gardening books, Permaculture, No Dig, Companion Planting, Preserving, Homesteading… I’ve read a lot of books. And, not all of them earn a place on my bookshelf.

Nothing quite compares to flipping open to a page to find that bit of info, recipe or inspiration. Below are some of my most loved Garden and Local Food books.

Each of the books listed below would make great gifts, and a welcome addition to any gardener, homesteader, or foodie’s library!

If you’re looking for more gifting ideas, I’ve gathered my favorites HERE.

“If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.”
-Cicero

Gardening + Homesteading Books

Small-Scale Homesteading by Michelle Bruhn + Stephanie Thurow
First, our book… full of inspiration + information to get you started on your homesteading journey! Chapters on Gardening, Preserving the Harvest, Keeping Chickens, Maple Sugaring, and Healthy Home Projects!

Plant Partners by Jessica Walliser
This is the perfect Science-based primer to help you understand the power of companion planting.

No Dig Gardening + Compost by Chares Dowding
This is the bible of No Dig Gardening written by the guru himself. Step by Step. Charles makes you feel like this is attainable because it really is! His Compost book upped my garden game in many ways!

Gaia’s Garden by Toby Hemenway
This really is the OG accessible permaculture book, and was the first I read on Home Scale Permaculture. Describes how to create self-sustaining backyard eco-systems naturally.

Year-Round Vegetable Gardener by Niki Jabbour
Extend Your Seasons and succession planting garden game.

Teaming With Microbes + Nutrients + Fungi by Jeff Lowenfels
A guide to tending the soil food web on a new level.

Buffalo Bird Woman’s Garden by Gilbert Wilson
This is a compilation of stories interpreted by Wilson from Buffalo Bird Woman. I’ve gleaned both practical “How To” knowledge along with a deeper appreciation of how Indigenous people were able to work with nature to grow good food.

Cookbooks

The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen by Sean Sherman
Game changer cookbook for how we look at our local foods and how we eat them.

The Perennial Kitchen by Beth Dooley
This book talks about how food provenance adds a depth to the dishes that starts and ends with the soil. Full of delectable recipes.

Attainable Sustainable Pantry by Kris Bordessa
Shows us how to make the most of our garden’s bounty and make so many staples on our own from basic ingredients.

Freeze Fresh by Crystal Schmidt
THE go-to guide on freezing your home grown produce, with techniques and recipes galore.

Can It & Ferment It  + Weck Home Preserving – by (my coauthor) Stephanie Thurow
My first books on fermentation, and I keep going back to the recipes time and again!

The Farmer and the Chef by the Minnesota Farmers Union
Written as a love letter to Minnesota farmers and the amazing foods they produce, it weaves stories and seasonal recipes to feed your soul.

Root Cellaring by Mike + Nancy Bubel
A book not on cooking, but on keeping your produce viable as long as possible with old storage techniques for the modern age.

Nature-Lover Ecology Books

Braiding Sweetgrass + Serviceberry by Robin Wall Kimmerer
Love letters to the reciprocal nature of nature written by an Indigenous botanist.

Bringing Nature Home by Doug Tallamay
A classic on how native plants bring back native wildlife of all sorts, and how we can rewild our yards.

Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants by Sam Thayer
The most comprehensive, photo-saturated book on foraging in the Midwest.

The Story of More by Hope Jahren
An eye-opening book about the behind-the-scenes science of climate change. A YA version was just released!!

For Fun

The Garden Maker’s Book of Wonder by Allison Vallin Kostovick
Fun mix of projects, tips, and appreciation for gardens, what they produce, and how to PLAY with them.

And of course, my TBR pile just keep growing, and I couldn’t be happier to spend the winter cuddled up with a good cup of tea in front of our wood stove and a GOOD BOOK!

Cheers to books in the winter so we can better Dig In come spring!

-Michelle

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Sustainable gardening is all about creating a living system that supports itself, nurtures the environment, and…  actually gets easier for you over time. It’s the sweet spot where ecology meets practicality.

When you plan to manage each precious resource—from water, soil, sun, and plant matter—you’ll see the soil grow richer each year and the workload become more manageable. The garden will start to function like the ecosystem it is rather than feel like a chore.

For Minnesota gardeners and especially organic, permaculture-minded homesteaders, this mindset fits beautifully with our distinct seasons, rich glacial soils, and wildly resilient native species.

 What “Gardening for Sustainability” Means

At its heart, a sustainable garden mimics natural ecological processes: nutrient cycling, water retention, biodiversity, and energy efficiency. Instead of relying on constant outside inputs—synthetic fertilizers, new soil and/or compost each spring, excessive watering—it becomes a semi-closed loop. You feed the soil, and it feeds everything else. It also means welcoming in beneficial insects to pollinate and organically manage pests in your garden.

You can look at sustainable gardening as having three pillars:

• Environmentally Regenerative
  You build soil instead of depleting it, conserve water, support pollinators, and reduce waste. Ways to build soil include: compost, cover crops, companion planting, and no dig gardening methods. This is the most important step, so spend time getting to know how soil life works to grow great plants.
  
• Personally Sustainable
  A garden becomes truly sustainable when you can keep up with it year after year without burning out. That means knowing your own limits and starting with right-sized beds, low-maintenance systems, and design choices that invite the garden do more of the work. Setting a goal or intention for your gardening helps some people feel accomplished.
  
• Climate Conscious
  First, do no harm. Look at your space as part of nature, not separate from it. Growing foods adapted to your specific climate reduces inputs and increases resilience. For me it keeps gardening joyful in my Zone 4 roller-coaster weather. Using the right plant for the right place will grow healthier plants and save you from digging up fails after years of limping along.

Setting Up Your Garden

Plant in Zones:
Think of your whole garden in terms of zones, the way Permaculture does. Zone 1 is closest to your home, where many people grow herbs and greens, plants that require regular tending and that your regularly want to harvest. Think in concentric circles moving out from there for how often you visit that part of the garden.

Plant Vertically:
Maximize the crops you can grow by growing up. This makes the most of sunlight, soil, and reduces the space you have to tend.

Companion Plant:
This kind of planting uses plants natural tendencies to support each other. This could by using different nutrients, having different roots depths or attracting or repelling beneficial or pest insects. Adding companion flowers and vegetables can be an organic gardener’s best friend!

Compost:
Setting up a compost bin/area when you start your garden will enable you to replenish the nutrients that came out of the soil—and keep them recycling right on your property—eliminating or at least reducing the need to bring in more fertilizers. Plus you’re keeping organic matter out of landfills!

How to Keep the Garden Sustainable for YOU

Enthusiasm is a renewable resource… but only if you protect it. I encourage you to seek out and be mindful of what brings you joy in the garden. Is it the planning, the planting, tending, harvesting, or cooking with the foods you’ve harvested?

Here are a few reminders I’ve found help me stay excited season after season.

• Only grow foods you (and your family) genuinely love
• Take some time off over winter—follow nature’s lead and rest
• Plant more perennials than annuals as the years go by
• Automate when possible: seed starting timers, drip irrigation
• Give yourself permission to scale up slowly, or not at all
• Celebrate “good enough” rather than striving for perfection
• REST and dream during the off season

A sustainable garden should be a joy, not a judgment.

And truly, there’s no magic formula or step by step plan—because each garden is a unique combination of the gardener and their goals and the location; including the soil, sun, and micro-climates.

How lucky are we that we get to work with whatever nature has in store for us and learn from it what will grow best outside our doors.

Cheers to more gardening for sustainability this season for all of us!

Dig in,
Michelle

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This is such a warming soup. I’ve made a few variations in the past but have settled on this as a family favorite. I recently made this for a recovering friend, and I think it’s a perfect hug in a jar.

I also recently harvested all of these main ingredients from our suburban homestead here in Minnesota. Yes, even the ginger. So this soup sums up my most recent fall harvests in one bowl.

And as with all soups, this recipe is a jumping off point. A half cup more or less of any of the main ingredients is not going to ruin this soup. It is lighter and brighter than the more common butternut squash soup, but it certainly looks like that other orange fall soup. I am always looking for ways to sneak in more protein, so of course I add white beans to this soup. Adding beans to any blended soup gives it a creamy, thicker consistency along with all the other health benefits.

More of my Hearty Homestead Soup Recipes HERE

I prefer it without the pinch of cinnamon that many recipes call for. Instead, I like a little underlying heat so I swap in a pinch (or two) of cayenne instead. Sometimes I add a dash of curry powder too. I’m also not vegan, and prefer it with chicken broth. If you want to make it vegan, swap vegetable broth for the chicken broth and add some nutritional yeast. This soup has so many melding flavors that the exact broth isn’t as important.

Carrot, Sweet Potato, and Ginger Soup Recipe

• 1-2 Tbsp olive oil to sauté
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 1-2 inch knob of ginger, peeled and chopped
• 3-4 garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 tsp fresh thyme (1 tsp dried)
• 1 tsp salt
• ¼ tsp ground white pepper
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• ¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper (can omit)
• 5-6 cups carrots (10-12 medium carrots) scrubbed, chopped
• 2 cups sweet potato (1-2 medium sweet potatoes) peeled, chopped
• 1-2 cups white beans (I use frozen shelling beans)
• 4 cups chicken broth (can sub veggie broth + a dash of nutritional yeast)
• 10 oz of a 14 oz can of coconut milk (go ahead and use all of it if you want, I just think using all of it makes it too sweet)

Instructions

• In a large deep pot add oil and warm, sauté onions until translucent.
• Add garlic, ginger, thyme, salt and pepper and let the spices ‘bloom’ for a few minutes.
• Add chopped carrots and sweet potatoes and cover with broth, adding water to cover if needed.
• Cover and cook at a solid simmer for 30 minutes until all veggies are soft and ready for the blender of your choice.
• Options: potato masher for a chunkier soup, immersion stick blender for an in between consistency, or a table top blender for a silky smooth soup. Let cool slightly if adding to blender.
• Add soup back to pot, warm and add coconut milk.
• Garnish with a little coconut milk, thyme and cayenne as you prefer.

This soup holds in the refrigerator for a week, but I bet it won’t last that long…

I love that I can use this recipe with carrots straight out of the garden or when I find them months later, still in the refrigerator. And I get the same great flavor, but without worrying about the perfect crunch.

Let me know if you love this soup as much as I do.

Dig In,
Michelle

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Fall is in the air. Cooler days brings the unmistakable shift in our gardens as the growing season winds down. It’s tempting to grab your rake, pull every plant out by the roots, and “tidy up” before winter hits.

But if you’re aiming for a healthier garden and less work next season, it’s time to embrace no dig garden clean-up. No dig gardening is more than just a trend—it’s a smarter, soil-loving way to garden. And when it comes to fall cleanup, the no dig method gives your garden a natural boost while cutting your workload. Win-win.

What Is No Dig Gardening?

No dig (or no-till) gardening is exactly what it sounds like: you minimize digging or tilling your soil. Instead of turning the earth, you build rich, living soil by layering organic matter on top—think compost, mulch, and plant material. This protects the structure of the soil, keeps the microbial life thriving, and suppresses weeds.

Why does that matter? Because soil isn’t just dirt. It’s a living ecosystem full of microorganisms like fungi, bacteria, worms, and insects that work together to keep your plants healthy. When you dig or till, you disrupt that balance. When you leave it alone, good things start happening.

Lear how to Build a No Dig + Hügelkultur Garden Bed

Fall No Dig Garden Clean-Up 101

Fall is the perfect time to practice no dig garden clean-up techniques. Instead of yanking everything out and starting from bare soil, here’s what you should do instead:

1. Cut, Don’t Pull

Healthy annual plants like broccoli, beans, or sunflowers? Don’t pull them up by the roots. Cut them back at soil level, and leave the roots in the ground.

Why? Those roots are full of organic matter. As they break down over the winter, they feed soil microbes and create natural channels that help aerate the soil. Worms love them. Fungi thrive on them. And your soil structure improves by what the decomposers leave behind. It’s the ultimate set-it-and-forget-it garden technique.

2. Remove Diseased Plants

If any plants showed signs of disease—like blight or wilt—go ahead and remove those completely. But don’t toss them in your compost pile until you know more about what the disease is.  I regularly add plants with powdery mildew to my compost pile, as that fungal disease need living plant matter to survive.

Most other diseases are best for the burn pile or the county composting site that keeps their compost piles monitored and hot enough (140-180F) to kill the soil borne pathogens.

3. Chop and Drop

If your plants are healthy but sprawling, you can chop them into smaller pieces and leave them right on the garden bed. This “chop and drop” technique turns your old plants into mulch, slowly decomposing over the winter and feeding the soil naturally. The best known plant to do this with is Comfrey, as it decomposes quickly and adds tons of nutrients to the soil.

It also gives beneficial insects like beetles and spiders a place to overwinter. A tidy garden might look nice to us, but messy is beautiful to pollinators.

4. Add a Layer of Compost or Mulch

After you’ve cut back your plants, top your garden beds with a layer of shredded leaves, leaf mold or straw—about 1 to 2 inches thick. Organic mulch not only protects your soil from erosion and weeds, but it also insulates all that microbial life underground. Think of it like tucking your soil in for the winter.

Consider planting a Fall Cover Crop to add nutrients and living roots to your soil.

5. Leave the Leaves (In Moderation)

Fallen leaves are free mulch, rich in carbon and beneficial nutrients. Rake them into your garden beds, especially around perennials. They’ll break down slowly and improve soil structure.

Just don’t smother your plants—aim for a light, fluffy layer so air and water can still move through. I’ll often run over leaves with my mower to help shred them to avoid creating a mat of impenetrable leaves.

A Special Nitrogen Note

Leaving the roots of legumes like beans, peas, clover, and vetch will add serious amounts of nitrogen to your soil as well. These plants form a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia soil bacteria to form nodules of nitrogen. It is especially important to leave the roots of these plants to keep the fixed nitrogen in the soil.

Below is a photo of an edamame root with fixed nitrogen nodules.

Why Fall No Dig Cleanup Works

When you follow no dig practices in the fall, you’re playing the long game. You’re building a living, breathing soil system that supports plant health, holds moisture, and fights pests—naturally.

Here’s what you’ll notice next spring:

• Looser, richer soil that’s easy to plant into.
• Fewer weeds, since you didn’t expose dormant weed seeds to light.
• Better moisture retention, thanks to improved soil structure.
• More worms and beneficial insects, doing the hard work for you.

All that, and you didn’t even break a sweat digging.

Less Work, Healthier Garden

Fall is the time to slow down, reflect, and let nature take the lead. No dig gardening honors that rhythm. So this season, resist the urge to rip everything out and make it look “perfect.”

Instead, cut back healthy annuals at the base, leave the roots in the ground, and layer on compost and mulch. You’re not just cleaning up your garden—you’re investing in it.

Let the soil rest. Let the microbes work. Try gardening more like a forest…

And when spring rolls around, your garden will be more than ready to thrive—with less effort from you.

-Michelle

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But then a light bulb popped on.

These were not a waste—just a different stage of the plant.

I didn’t have to toss these overripe beans into the compost. I could leave these to grow and save them as dried beans. I could eat them or save them to plant for more beans next year.

It was a sublimely empowering moment. One I want you to have too!

I got lucky by stumbling onto starting with one of the easiest vegetable seeds to save. For the first few years I saved mostly bean varieties and native flowers. Over a decade later, I’m still experimenting with saving new seeds. Which is why I’m well suited to pass the torch: if I can do it—you can too!

Why Save Seeds

• It connects you with nature
• You can help sustain biodiversity
• Saves real money
• Plants become better adapted to your local climate
• So let’s get started by saving the right seeds
• It connects you to your food
• Seeds are beautiful!

Beginner Seed Saver Tips:

• Save seeds on a dry day
• Save seeds from only the healthiest plants
• Save seeds from heirloom + open pollinated plants
• Have envelopes ready and labeled

Heirloom vs. Hybrid Seeds

You may have heard about the difference between heirloom and hybrid varieties. One of the inherent values of an heirloom plant’s strength lies in its ability to reproduce itself. A bonus is that plants started from saved seeds regrown in the same location tend to produce plants better suited for the exact location they are grown in each season. this is called local adaptation. A plant is said to be fully adapted after about seven years. Nature truly is amazing!

It is worth starting by finding out if the plants growing in your garden are heirloom or hybrids. Seeds from hybrid plants will not re-grow the same plant. They will likely revert back to one of the two plants that were combined to make the hybrid.

Seed Types

Seeds come in several types. Here’s what each name means.

• Open Pollinated
  Any plant that is pollinated naturally by the wind or pollinators. Seeds will produce true-to-type (stable) harvests the following year.
• Heirloom
  Seeds that are open pollinated and have been grown and stable for at least 50 years.
• Hybrid
  Two different plants’ pollen is crossed to produce replicas. Seeds saved and replanted from a hybrid will likely produce characteristics of one or both parents but probably won’t match your previous harvest. Denoted with an “F1” on seed packets.
• Cultivar
  A standardized variety bred for particular traits including uniformity, such as ‘Green Zebra’ tomato.
• Grex
  Seeds that have been crossed multiple times with similar plants. They show genetic variations within a predictable range. Increased resiliency from a small sample of seeds. (More on Grex Seeds HERE.)
• Landrace
  Adapted to a region, from non-standardized, genetically diverse, open pollinated seeds. These are grown to bring out possible genetic variations.

Note: A plant can be all of the following: landrace, grex, and open-pollinated. Heirlooms produce true to type so they can be a landrace and open pollinated but not a grex.

Save only the Very Best Seeds

Save seeds from the best plants in your garden—selecting these ‘top performing’ plants will build seed and plants for next year.

This is how us humans domesticated and increased our harvests from wild seeds over the centuries—but it is still worth doing over a few years. After over a decade of saving pole beans mine produce better than the original packet I bought.

Do not save seeds from diseased plants or plants that didn’t thrive in your garden.

Patience with Nature

One thing to keep in mind when starting to save seeds is that we’re really just helping nature along. Waiting long enough for Mother Nature to do her work is a big part of the initial learning curve.

Both waiting for the seed to be ripe enough on the plant and waiting long enough for the seed to be fully dry enough to put into storage!

Plants will tell you when their seeds are ready. They give you signs, like color changes or simply starting to fall off the plant. Lettuces, for example, are like dandelions with their seeds; it becomes obvious.

Not all seeds are as showy with their seed ripeness, which brings me to Heritage Farm Field crew Leader, Rochelle’s advice, “spend a little time learning about the plant you are saving seeds from. Each crop has some specific information on how to work with it—but don’t be afraid to mess up. There are so many easy plants to start with.”

Easy-to-Save Seeds

Saving Pea + Bean Seeds

These two have such similar saving techniques we can talk about them together. Save bean and pea seeds on the plant and let them mature rather than eat them.

After harvesting these seeds I usually leave them in their pods in a paper bag  to dry further in a dry closet until I happen on them in winter and then shell them out, keeping them in paper envelopes or bags. I always say I’m going to be more intentional this season- but if that’s all I’ve done, and it has worked in the past you know you can handle this, too.

At the end of the season, watch for bean rust while waiting for beans to dry on the vine.

Over winter watch for little black bugs (bean weevils) emerging from the bean pods.

Saving Tomato Seeds

The good news on saving tomato seeds is that you get to save your seeds and eat your tomatoes too! Tomato seeds are ripe the same time as their fruits—yay!!

To harvest seeds, just squish out the juice and seeds into a jar.

There are two main schools of thought on how to best save tomato seeds. 

Fermenting then drying -or- just drying.

Anyone who’s eaten a tomato probably knows about the little gelatin glob that encapsulates each seed. This gelatin helps the tomato seed to hold off on germinating by keeping it protected. This layer of protection keeps seed from germinating to quickly.

I like to get rid of the gel by fermenting it away before drying, but some think that drying alone breaks it down enough. To ferment tomato seeds, simply squeeze the tomato seeds + juice into a jar and let sit on a counter for 2–3 days. Rinse and strain off the juice until only the seeds are left. Then transfer them to paper towels/paper plates.

I use both methods as the season allows, but do think I get better germination with fermented seeds.

Tomatoes may cross-pollinate with each other, so if you are serious about saving these, plan on growing different varieties on opposite ends of your garden.

Saving Bell Pepper Seeds

Sweet peppers are one of the simplest seeds to save. The hardest part for northern gardeners like myself is getting the peppers to full maturity in our growing season. But luckily, you just harvest the fruits when fully ripe. You don’t have to wait until they are over-ripe to collect viable seeds.

Simply separate seeds from the ribs, careful not to break the seed coating. Dry on a paper towel for a week or so, then store in a paper envelope.

Saving Lettuce Seeds

Patience is key when saving lettuce seeds. Start your plants early and let them bolt. Bolting is when the plant sends up flower stalk that blooms and eventually sets seeds.

Then your job is to wait as the tight flowers SLOWLY turn to white fluff—and dry on the plant before harvesting the seeds. The final seed heads remind me of showy little seed poofs just like dandelions.

The trick is to catch these seeds at full maturity but before they drop to the soil. If I can remember in time, I try to wrap my seed lettuces in a mesh bag so they can continue to ripen on the plant. Then I chop the plant stalk late into the fall after the plant has died back. That way I can harvest as much seed as possible without it falling to the ground. Lettuce will self seed this way as well.

These are also seeds that you need to wait for dry weather to harvest. You can shake into a bowl or bucket, then blow away the fluff and chaff (extra plant material). One plant will give you enough seeds to share with your entire neighborhood, or a local seed library!

Click HERE for how to save these annual flower seeds.

Seed Storage

It is recommended to store them in a glass jar or plastic bag. Air-tight containers will hold seeds viable for longer; you just need to make sure they are fully dried out before sealing to avoid growing mold instead of more food.

I mostly keep them in paper bags or paper envelopes (or glass jars), but always in a cool, dark area.

This SEED VIABILITY CHART from High Mowing Organic Seed Co. shows the typical time that different seeds stay viable for best germination rates.

Seed Savers Exchange is a great place to start if you want to buy savable seeds.

I hope this quick overview inspires you to try and save some seeds—for the first time, or save some new seeds…

What questions do you have? What seeds are you most likely to start saving?

Dig In,
Michelle

The post Seed Saving: Vegetables appeared first on Forks in the Dirt.

Seed Saving is something that has made me a better gardener in so many ways. It requires us to be more aware of how our plants are progressing through the season. It makes you see more than just the ‘product’ you’re growing—you see the plant as a self-sustaining entity. It can reproduce itself! For all these reasons and more, seed saving connects you to your garden in new and beautiful ways.

Did you know that saving annual flower seeds is a simple and cost-saving skill to master in your garden? It doesn’t require any special equipment and gives you another ‘harvest’ from your gardens.

Saving seeds is another way gardening helps us work closer with nature. And we need to really pay attention to nature as she moves through the seasons in order to save the best seeds. And being ‘in the moment’ in our gardens is one of things that brings us the most joy, isn’t it!?

So, I’m sharing my favorite annual flower seeds to save. The flowers listed also make amazing companion plants in any vegetable garden, along with adding color to the beautiful bouquets I get to bring inside all season…

More on these flowers as companion plants HERE.

Basics to Successful Seed Saving

• Start with the right seeds– grow open pollinated or heirloom varieties that will come back true to type. Saving seeds from hybrid plants will most likely not grow into the same plants (or flower/fruit) that they came from. More information on which are viable seeds to save HERE.
• Save seeds from the healthiest plants- Only save seeds from plants and fruits/veggies with traits you want to bring back (earlier, bigger, color, etc.).
• Mark specific blooms– as colors may fade before you can collect seed.
• Collect Seeds on dry days– wet seeds can mold when brought inside.
• Be patient– Saving seeds is mostly intuitive, but researching the specific seed maturity time of plants will help you gather the best seed.

Saving the best seeds means you’ll have the best luck germinating them next season.

My Favorite + Easiest Annual Flowers to Save Seeds

From the well-loved marigolds and zinnias to nasturtium and calendula and so many more, let’s see what flowers you can bring back to your garden for FREE next year!

Since all the flowers listed bloom continually, you can deadhead AND leave a few to fully mature into seeds throughout the season.

Calendula

These are also known as pot marigold and come in many shades and varieties. These seeds look like little aliens and very unlikely to sprout—but these beauties are easy to harvest and require very little cleaning. Waiting until the seed heads are fully brown and dried on the plant is key. They should basically fall off into your hands or collecting bowl.

Since these flowers bloom continually, you can deadhead—or leave a few to fully mature into seeds throughout the season.

*If you’re growing a few different varieties of calendula, note that they do cross-pollinate, which means that eventually you’ll have your own variety.

Seeds viable for 3–6 years

Check out my post on how to make calendula salve.

Cosmos

I love the way these blow in the summer breeze and add such a variety of color to the vegetable garden and border. I find most of the varieties are hybrids, but sensation, radiance and candy stripe have all grown well from home saved seeds for me. Wait for the flower heads to dry completely on the plant, then rub between fingers into a bucket. The seeds will fall off, and look like little curved pine needles. Then blow away the extra fluff (chaff).

Seed viable for 3–5 years

Marigold

Oh, the marigold, is there any flower that is either loved or hated as intensely? I am a lover, for so many reasons. True marigolds are from the Tagetes family, and they offer a wide array of colors and sizes. I prefer the French marigolds for the full-sized blooms and large (3’x3’) plant size and lemon or tangerine gem for the smaller flowers and (1’x1’) plant size.

These seeds will dry on the plant and stay encapsulated in the involucre—how cool is that word—and that function!? So, they really stay all together until weather and time wear the papery seed package away—it falls to the soil and is ready to grow again. But we get to play with these and pull them out of their packaging.

Marigold seeds look like two-toned needles. We’re looking for seeds that are darker/black on the bottom and a straw color on the top. If the seeds aren’t fully mature, they’ll still be lighter in color at the base.

Larger seeds from larger french marigold flowers, tiny seeds from the gem series!

Seeds viable for 1–3 years

Nasturtium

These cascading beauties seem to save their seeds until the end of the season. Seeds form in groups of 2–3 and are attached well to the stem. They are tasty as immature green seeds and make a fun alternative to capers.

But these seeds need to ripen fully and fall off on their own to have the best germination rates. So my practice is to wait until mid-September, then start lifting the mass of blooms and vines up off the ground and picking up the fallen seeds. They look like dried up, wrinkly little brains (as my schoolyard garden kids call out year after year). Make sure these are fully dry before sealing them up.

Seeds viable for 2–5 years

Poppies

Snap Dragons

Tithonia

Tithonia (aka Mexican Sunflower) is one of those plants that impresses me every year. They often grow 6–7 feet tall and produce so many large branches laden with blooms that the bees and butterflies love late in the season. These are another flower that do best when the seeds are left to dry fully on the plant.

I snip just below the base of the flowers and drop directly into a brown paper bag. If you plan on handling these at all consider gloves as they are sharp! Shake the bag to help release the seeds from the heads. The seeds are gray to black and triangular, with a rough ‘crown’ on their wide end..

Viable for 2–4 years

Zinnia

With zinnias you can have your bouquet and save seeds too! As long as the flowers are in full bloom when you cut them, you can enjoy them as cut flowers and then as they fade, remove from water, rinse and hang to dry—and still have great germination rates. I actually find this works better than leaving the flower heads in the garden to mature, because so many birds pick at the flowers and seed heads.

Gently tug from the base of the blooms to separate seeds. I usually hold the flowers upside down for this. You can keep the petals intact or break off depending on your preference. The seeds are flat arrow-shaped seeds, usually dark gray.

They won’t always bloom true to color, but tend to stay in the same shades, shapes and sizes from what I have saved and regrown.

Viable for 3–5 years

Learn all about Saving Veggie Garden Seeds HERE!

Storing Seeds

Make sure seeds are 100% dry before storing in either paper envelopes or an air tight container. I opt for paper envelopes and keep them inside a loose metal tin, in a cool and dry part of my home.

With each flower seed saved you’re adding to the story and resiliency of your garden, and saving money too!

What flower seeds do you want to save first?

Dig into Seed Saving,

Michelle

The post Seed Saving: Annual Flowers appeared first on Forks in the Dirt.

I am a Midwestern gal, through and through. And let me tell you, we take our corn seriously.

That coupled with the growing interest in preserving more of our foods brought about this article. I’ll share my family’s favorite ways to enjoy and preserve this beautiful bountiful crop.

I revere these harvests. I honor them by eating as much local, sustainably raised sweet corn as possible. Then, by putting up some of the summer flavor each year. I freeze, can and ‘relish’ the heck out of this crop—and I want you to be able to savor these flavors all year long too. We’ll get you preserving corn for your family, too.

But, like any homegrown or local food, NOTHING beats Fresh Eating!

Tips for Fresh Feasting

• Eat the day it is picked (or fine, within 48 hours)
• Do NOT overcook. Love those popping kernels!
• Boil 3–4 minutes – hold the heat by draining water and letting the lid sit barely askew
• Steam for 2 minutes – just an inch of water in the bottom of the pan
• Grilling Fresh Sweet Corn – soak in salt water for 30–60 minutes first (if you can). Pull the tassels, or they WILL start on fire. I enjoy both shucked and un-shucked grilled corn. 15 minutes rotating ¾ times on 350–400F grill. Click HERE for more details.

Let’s Get Shucking

For real, shucking corn is a hot topic online! While there are many tricks and hacks that I’ve for shucking corn to remove the silks, I end up going back to the old school ways. I don’t want to microwave my corn or chop off the bottom and waste any kernels. When you’re doing this to 50–60 cobs, a little waste off each cob adds up to a lot of wasted corn!

*A note on disposing the husks* The husks add up to a LOT of ‘green’ organic matter. They can be added to your compost pile, but your pile will benefit from a little chopping and/or ripping to disperse the husks better. You can also bring corn husks to most food scraps collection sites. Just please do not add them to your trash—they add a lot of methane emissions to the landfills.

Freezing Sweet Corn

I think freezing sweet corn kernels is the easiest way to preserve corn. If you can, search out corn that is still in its ‘milk stage’. This first pick of a corn crop is usually the sweetest and has a white milky substance that oozes from the kernels. Hence, early stage corn is referred to as being in the ‘milk stage’. This ‘milkiness’ signals more sugars and less starch. The less starch the better for freezing.

Safest way to freeze is to cut kernels from the cob and parcook. Just a ½ cup water for every 10–12 cups of corn kernels, which is my normal batch. Cook with lid on for 5–6 minutes, stirring once or twice. Then remove lid for another 5 minutes to cook off the water. Spread out to cool (no ice bath) before placing into freezer containers. I’ve used both rigid freezer containers and freezer bags for corn.

I also tested freezing a small bag not blanched or parcooked. It degraded quickly in the freezer, was really starchy when cooked and we ended up giving that to the chickens.

**1 ear of corn = 1 cup of kernels**

I follow many of Crystal’s recipes in her book, Freeze Fresh. I especially like her frozen Creamy Parmesan Confetti Corn, a great side dish to brighten winter tables. See this recipe being made to the right.

I enjoy a little creamed corn as well. I like freezing the corn ‘milk’ and bits that I get from my ‘second go’ at the cobs is perfect to use in my Corn Chowder Soup recipe.

I usually also freeze one or two bags of corn ON the cob. There’s something special about eating this once or twice in a winter. It pairs perfectly with a pork roast.

To freeze whole corn cobs:
Shuck, then toss whole or halved cobs into boiling water and parcook for 10 minutes. Then submerge into an ice bath until cooled, then drain to remove as much water as possible before placing into freezer bags. These take time and space, which is why I usually only do a few each year, but are such a treat.

Water Bath Canning

Corn does not have the required acidity levels (like tomatoes) or sugar content (like jellies and jams) to be safely water bath canned on its own. But if you make into a Pickled Corn Relish, you have a great addition to any summer potluck. Only water bath can corn if adding vinegar!

Pressure Canning

Once I started pressure canning, I felt like a real modern-day homesteader. Pressure canning corn and green beans changed how I gardened, and how we eat during the winter. I urge you to try some basic pressure canning recipes to rediscover preserving skills. If you are worried about this, you are not alone. You also have many trusted resources to follow online.

I follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation’s recipes for all my pressure canning. These are well-tested recipes that I feel comfortable using. They even have a easy to read guide to using pressure canners for beginners.

Let’s walk you through our process of processing enough corn to last us over winter.  

Start to finish it is an all-day project with all hands on deck, but it is enjoyable work, with instant and long-lasting rewards.

We buy two boxes of sweet corn from our local farmer and get shucking (see early content on shucking). Each box of corn is about the same as a 5-gallon bucket, and two of these equal one bushel. Most pressure canning recipes deal in bushels.

I get my kids—sometimes neighbor kids too—to help with all the shucking. It’s amazing how much work kids will do for some watermelon, which I always get from the farmer when I pick up our corn. A freshly roaster cob or two to eat after helping never hurts either!

Then I work to remove the silk. This is the slogging part of the project, and my kids are not interested. A handy gadget, called a de-silking brush, is worth every penny of the $5–$10 you’ll spend.

After the silks are gone, I cut the kernels from the cobs. I’m old school in this step, using a sharp knife and my Nordic Ware Bundt pan to make the process a little easier. I told you I was a Midwest gal… This pan elevates the cobs, making it easier to get to the bottoms, and helps catch the kernels. There are many tools out there; I just haven’t found one that works well on all the different sized cobs, so I stick with what I know.

Once you have enough corn prepped to fill your canner, follow the National Center for Home Food Preservation – Pressure Canning Whole Kernel Corn recipe. I prefer the ‘Raw pack’ version because there’s one less step and it gives great corn. Fill loosely with raw kernels, add salt if desired, then add boiling water to the jars, leaving 1” head space. Adjust lids and set into pressure canner, following timing- which is 85 minutes when I’m doing quarts.

Then it is about heating up the water, watching the pressure reading and timing. Just like with water bath canning, you’ll want to set the jars somewhere they can remain for at least 24 hours without disturbing so the seals set on the lids.

I do all my pressure canning outside on my grill’s side burner. This keeps the heat out of my kitchen, and I’m able to let the jars cool off outside as well- plus I’m usually ready to relax outside for a bit after getting the first load into the canner. I do two rounds of 5 quarts. So for 10 large servings of shelf stable corn, plus the extras that I freeze (usually another 4–5 meals). We have enough to see us through to the next summer.

Pressure canned corn is good for one to two years when processed and stored properly.

I use canned corn as a simple side dish, in or in recipes like my favorite Corn Chowder soup. There’s nothing quite like opening the pantry and seeing all the foods you love ready and waiting. Knowing where they came from and what ingredients they contain is also a huge peace of mind.

So, even if you start small and can just one thing this summer, I urge you to try—and see if it doesn’t become one of your favorite granny skills.

Dig in,
Michelle

The post Preserving Sweet Corn 3 Ways appeared first on Forks in the Dirt.

At this point of summer, even I’m getting tired of the same old salads. But making your own dressings is an easy way to jazz up your salad routine!

It’s also a great way to use up the last of a jar of jam (or honey, or mustard etc…). Plus you skip the icky additives found in so many purchased dressings.

This is a ‘Strawberry Jam’ based recipe, specifically freezer jam, that tastes so much brighter than cooked jam. I usually make a jar of this dressing with the overflow from making freezer jam, or the last dregs of the previous jar…

Find my Strawberry Jam recipe HERE.

If you’re looking for more inspiration on making more of your own items from scratch, I have to recommend Kris Bordessa’s latest book, Attainable Sustainable Pantry.

I mention using white balsamic in this recipe only because when I first went to play with this recipe, I had some on hand. The white balsamic does lighten the flavor and let the strawberry burst through. But you can easily swap out the white for regular balsamic vinegar.

I’ve only ever made this with fresh thyme leaves, but I’m sure you could make with dried thyme. Just give it some time to hang out and add its flavor to the dressing.

Strawberry Vinaigrette RECIPE

• 4 Tbsp strawberry freezer jam
  (see recipe link above)
• 1/4 cup ripe strawberries
• 1/2 cup of mild oil (avocado or olive)
• 2 Tbsp white balsamic vinegar
  (or use regular balsamic)
• 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar
• 1 Tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves
• Salt + pepper to taste

Add all ingredients to a jar. Mash fresh berries with a fork. I like having some bigger pieces of berries in the vinaigrette, but you do you.

You can just ‘shake it till you make it’, until you see the oil and vinegar emulsify. I recommend making sure the lids are on really tight before shaking! You can use a hand-held milk frother or a mini-whisk. You could even add this to a blender if you wanted to.

Don’t skip the chopped thyme leaves; they’re such a great addition to the typical berry vinaigrette.

You can use the vinaigrette right away, but it also keeps in the refrigerator two weeks. Shake before using.

More on Growing Strawberries.

I love making small jars of dressing. They’ll perfectly dress one big family sized salad, or a few of my personal sized salads. This recipe can easily be halved to make the most of whatever you have on hand.

Dig In,
Michelle

The post Strawberry Vinaigrette Recipe appeared first on Forks in the Dirt.