Succession Planting Basics
Succession planting is a simple way to harvest more food for longer in your existing garden space! I am constantly blown away by how many times and how much I can plant in my backyard garden beds.
Succession planting boils down to “out with the old and in with the new’. It’s the practice of planting one crop right after another is harvested. This practice can keep you eating fresh from your garden all season long, even after frosts.
Spoiler: Successful Succession Planting has a lot to do with planning and picking the right plants.
There are a few ways to go about this kind of planting.
- Succession Planting: two or more different crops following each other in the same space
- Staggered or Relay Planting: same crop with repeated plantings in the same space
- Interplanting / Companion Planting: when you plant multiple things at the same time in the same space that mature at different times and mutually benefit each other.
For now, let’s focus on the practice of planting different crops one after another in the same space, what most people think of as ‘succession planting’. Many of the same plants that star in our Northern spring gardens do well when started in summer to mature in the fall. Choosing cool weather plants, that can take a slight frost, will grow your summer efforts into delicious fall side dishes.
Compare the same garden bed above in mid-May and mid-June; on the left is my earliest crop of cool weather crops. I started seeds indoors, and planted out under cover. On the right is the same space after harvesting pounds and pounds (meals and meals) worth of food. The peas are still producing at the back, onions are bulbing along the front, and bush beans are just popping through.
These early spring and late fall seasons are referred to as
Gardening Terms
‘Shoulder Seasons’
Shoulder Seasons can be extended even further by adding a
‘Low Tunnel’
a piece of plastic kept up by a frame to trap warm air.
Digging In – Again!
Planting the same crop in the same space is as simple as pulling out a crop once you’ve finished harvesting and replanting. If you practice no till gardening you can even just cut at the soil level and leave the roots intact to keep feeding the soil while you start your next crop.
In general, look for quick maturing varieties. The ‘days to maturity’ should be listed on any seed packet. This is really helpful for figuring out if you’ll be able to harvest before winter comes knocking.
I grow in Minnesota, specifically in USDA Zone 4b. We generally see our first frost (32F) around October 1nd, and first freeze (28F) around Oct 13th. If you want to plant on the 1st of July, you can plant things that mature in 90 days or less if it can’t handle a frost. You can plant things that take around 110 days to mature around July 1 if it can take a freeze.
With roughly 140 days of frost-free growing, it’s good to buffer with crops that can take the cold of the bold north!
Direct Seeding VS Potting
I used to direct seed many of these crops and still use this method. I’ve come to like starting succession plants in pots or trays this time of year. This gives them a chance to start growing earlier, sometimes weeks before the space is open in the garden. I can give them the perfect growing medium to really start the plant babies off right! I can also move the whole tray of seedlings to the shade or take them into the garden shed on really hot days. This makes for a less stressed plant overall, which means better harvests in the end. But I am here to say that both ways work and produce food, so you do you!
When direct seeding in the intense sun of mid summer, think about placing on the north side of a taller plant, or in an area that gets afternoon shade to help provide a little escape from the sun throughout the day!
Location Matters
Timeline + Plant Possibilities
There are so many choices out there beyond the tomatoes, peppers or cucumbers- those heat loving crops that need to be started in spring to fully mature. The following is a list of plants that have worked well for me but is fa from complete. This is also what works best for gardening in my zone 4b.
The crops listed below mature at different rates but can take the heat while getting established; a plus for direct sown crops this time of year. Tossing some a thin layer of mulch (shredded leaves, straw or dried grass clippings) over newly panted seeds can help keep the tops layer of soil damp enough to aid in germination. Look at days to maturity to plan when to plant within the general time frame.
Mid-June to Mid-July
Direct Seed
Beets: Being a root crop these can obviously take a little frost, and if you’re not as interested in the leaves, can take quite a bit! Beets are great to plant in after early peas or bush beans come out for crop rotation, can also work well after garlic is harvested Consider planting beets in part shade mid-June through mid-July to keep from bolting. I love Burpee Golden, and am growing a new white variety this year, Avalanche! More about Beet Love HERE!
Bush Beans: Get these in the ground at the beginning of July and you’ll be eating fresh snap beans from the garden in no time, as the warmer temps get them germinated and growing fast. Early Contended is ready in around 50 days, most (we like Empress) are ready in 60-70 days.
Carrots: One of my favorite succession planting crops! Carrots take around 70 days to mature. But planting carrots roughly 100- days prior to first frost is recommended for fall carrots. You can also add mulch to the tops of carrots to harvest after frosts and freezes. Most Nantes types and Calliope Blend are favorites for our fall into winter garden.
Kale: These are a great option at this time because even though they can take a little longer to mature, they can hold in the garden for harvesting well after frost sets in, being hardy almost down to 20F. Scarlet Kale holds amazingly well in our Minnesota late fall.
Mid June to Mid July
Start Seeds in Pots
I usually start the plants below in pots, keeping them covered with insect cloth while seedlings and ‘babying’ them by removing to shade or even the garage if the temps soar.
Summer Seed Starting Tip
Broccoli + Cauliflower: Start indoors at this time of year to avoid all the cabbage loopers. I’ve had good luck keeping in pots, under insect cloth until ready to transplant out end of August. I end up planting these in place of other brassicas recently harvested. Snow Crown Cauliflower and Emerald Crown Broccoli do well in my Fall gardens.
Cabbages: I tend to grow more Nappa varieties (Slow Bolt is a favorite, even in the fall garden) than anything which tend to mature in about 65+ days.
Pak Choi: These fast-growing white stalked Chinese cabbages are stars of my early Spring and Fall gardens. I tend to plant these after garlic is harvested. *These can take the least frost of any of the fall cabbages*. Baby Choi varieties can be ready in 6 weeks, while my personal flavor favorite, Joi Choi, is usually ready to harvest between 50 and 60 days.
Early August
Peas: Direct Seeding peas in early August tends to do best in our area. They take roughly 60 days to mature and love the fall garden. Plant wherever you can sneak in a trellis in summer, after early beans or even cucumbers if they are fading, I’ve seeded peas with cucumbers still growing as the bottom leaves have usually been removed by this time.
Radishes: These are easy to pop in between rows of other veggies, but love growing with carrots. I also grow between other brassicas. The beautiful and tasty Watermelon Radish does best in the fall.
Greens: Everything from Arugula, Lettuces and Spinach love the fall garden. Maturing in anywhere from 40 to 60 days these are good options to direct seed or start in pots after you’ve taken out spent bush beans, brassicas, or even early potatoes. Winter Density is a romaine type does great into fall.
Pay Attention to Your Garden
Each season is different (this one being a great example of climate flux!). Observing your garden and watching the weather is important, also noticing the changing path of the sun will help with placement of fall veggies. The whole goal is to grow a little later into the fall and keep your garden producing into the ‘shoulder season’ wherever you are!
A Note on Seed Saving
As many of us begin to save more of our own seed, I’ll mention that planning out where you want to save seed from beans, lettuces and peas (crops that take a longer time to set seed) before planting will make transitioning easier. Keeping an out of the way spot for a row of beans to keep growing into fall, or for a head of lettuce to flower and seed is a beautiful and sustainable part of the garden process. For more info on saving seeds read my “Seed Saving for the Home Gardener” post.
These are all general guidelines as each season can be vastly different (as any Minnesotan will proudly remind anyone willing to listen), but these dates and plant varieties give you a good idea of when you could plant which vegetables to keep eating from your garden well into fall, and even winter!
Dig In (Again)
Michelle
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