Category: Garden How To (Page 1 of 5)

From the ground up. Digging into garden basics and beyond.

3 Permaculture Projects to Get You Started!

Permaculture is for everyone!

Imagine buying less compost, growing more food and flowers while lowering water use, all by setting up our gardens to mimic the way nature multitasks...

A grapevine adds shade, habitat (a robin nests in the vines) and food for our family!

Permaculture offers exciting and common-sense ways to take environmental action in our own yards by working with nature. We can be part of the climate solution; one plant, compost pile or rain barrel at a time.

The idea of permaculture has been around since the dawn of time, but the term was coined in the 1970’s when two Australians joined the concepts of ‘permanent’ and ‘agriculture’. Since then, its evolved to include the central ideas of earth care, human care, and fair share, supported by a dozen principles.

Permaculture Defined: the harmonious integration of landscape and people, and a framework for creating self-sustaining agricultural ecosystems.

A lawn over seeded with Dutch white clover between between garden beds
Adding clover to the vegetable garden or lawn increases biodiversity, nectar and drought tolerance all while fixing nitrogen.

As you practice permaculture, you’ll start seeing your land and the things living on it as interconnected resources working together to sustain each other. You’ll notice how each plant, insect and rain drop serves multiple functions. In an undisturbed forest, this kind of system has slowly matured over hundreds of years. Today we can help recreate nature’s self-sustaining systems by designing with existing resources to benefit the whole.

Permaculture functions best as a whole system’s approach. To get us started, we’re highlighting a few practices while acknowledging that as we work on getting better techniques, plants, and soil in place – it is the relationships between these elements that make permaculture so powerful.

Stacking Functions

A red colander filler with raspberry leaves

Stacking Functions is a central concept in Permaculture. Learning the plants functions will help us place the plant into our design.

Examples of multiple functions:

Raspberries: Growing berries, leaves for tea, attracting pollinators and conserve soil structure as a perennial.

Yarrow: Dynamic nutrient accumulator (phosphorus, potassium and copper), attracts beneficial insects, repels pests, breaks up compacted soil.

Clover: Nitrogen fixer, conserves soil, drought tolerant, attracts beneficial insects.

Permaculture suggests that garden designs flow from observing your yard and learning from it; where is your yard sunniest, driest, windiest, wettest? As we explain the following projects, consider how these would best fit into your space with your lifestyle and garden goals. 

Six Chickens scratching at the ground.
Consider adding chickens to your backyard to increase your permaculture impact!

Permaculture Ethics

Earth Care
People Care
Fair Share

Principles of Permaculture

  1. Observe and Interact
  2. Catch and Store Energy
  3. Obtain a Yield
  4. Apply Self-regulation and Accept Feedback
  5. Use and Value Renewable Resources and Services
  6. Produce No Waste
  7. Design from Patterns and Details
  8. Integrate rather than Segregate
  9. Use Small and Slow Solutions
  10. Use and Value Diversity
  11. Use Edges and Value the Margins
  12. Creatively Use and Respond to Change

Compost Options

    As author Toby Hemenway says, “start with the soil” in his book, Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture. [MB1] Composting is one of the best ways to continually build and replenish soil. It’s also one of the only ways to replenish trace elements like magnesium and copper, etc. (which plant roots pull from the soil) back into the soil. But did you know there are many ways to compost?

    3 different open bins for composting
    Compost areas can be made with what you have!

    You can set up traditional compost piles in your yard. You could vermicompost, which uses worms to within a closed bin, to keep composting indoors during winter in northern climates. There are also self-contained units that make composting an option for those without much outdoor space.

    A raised metal bed filled with large dead logs, a wheelbarrow of compost beside it ready to add to fill it up
    Filling a bed the Hugelkultur way.

    As we learn more about the soil food web, more people are starting No Dig gardening. This style of gardening minimizes soil disturbance and composts in place. This can look like ‘chop + drop’, where you cut down non-diseased plant material and let it first act as mulch and then slowly decompose in the garden where it grew.

    Or try Hügelkultur gardening, which uses organic materials found on your property to build soil health. Start with larger pieces of dead wood at the base, then branches. Top with layers of organic materials, same as what you’d add to a compost pile, but right in the garden. This applies the permaculture principle of using the ‘available services’ of the insect and microorganism world that are already present, while skipping the step of hauling and turning compost.

    Communal Composting
    If you really can’t or don’t want to compost yourself, remember most cities also have yard waste drop off sites and many have started “Organics Recycling” options.


    Planting Perennial Guilds

    Two pears hanging from a branch after a rain
    Fruit trees make excellent Permaculture additions.

    Planting edible landscapes is a great way to add function, biodiversity, and healthier plant communities to our gardens.  Interplanting and companion planting might be more familiar terms to gardeners and are similar to plant guilds. Think the “Three Sisters” Indigenous way of planting but make it perennial. Choosing perennial instead of annual edibles also helps the garden develop deeper soil food web relationships.

    Many cold-climate edible perennials make wonderful guild plant options. From herbs like chives, clary sage, horseradish, oregano, and thyme, to vegetables like asparagus, perennial kale, ramps, rhubarb, sorrel, walking onions and fruits like blueberries, currants, grapes, raspberries, rhubarb, and strawberries. Fruit and nut producing trees add another layer of food and height to the landscape. A food forest might seem unattainable – but we can imitate nature’s way of growing by starting with a tree or two. Perennial ground covers, herbs, shrubs, vines, dwarf and full-size trees can all be interplanted.

    A typical fruit tree guild will have a ring of bulbs at the outer drip line, with mulch producing, insectary and nutrient accumulating plants under the canopy. The exact plant choices would take into consideration resource sharing for root depth, nutrients needed etc.

    Apple Tree in the shade
    Apple Tree Guild in action

    APPLE TREE GUILD

    • Semi-Dwarf Apple Tree
    • Comfrey
    • Yarrow
    • White Clover
    • Feverfew
    • Anise Hyssop
    • Monarda
    • Chives/Onions

    While these mini ecosystems take longer to mature and require more upfront planning, in the long run they’ll reduce the need for care, fertilizer, and pest management.  They’ll end up supporting themselves, a permaculture goal. By adding plant diversity, you’re also growing more overall resilience.


    Water Collection

    An oak seedling in a hand
    Mature Oak trees can cycle (absorb and transpire) around 100 gallons of water daily.

    As gardeners living through climate chaos, we understand the value of rainwater as a resource. There are ways to make the most of this resource and collect water that go beyond planting rain gardens.

    A smart place to store water is the soil, and we can do this by designing swales. Swales function best on sloping land. They’re made by digging shallow trenches and adding berms on the lower side to slow run-off and let water percolate down into the soil. This creates an underground ‘lense’ of water as a reserve that deeper plant roots can access. 

    Capturing water from rooftops into rain barrels is an easy way for smaller and flatter properties to collect water. You run water from gutters down a spout and directly into a barrel for holding until needed. Place your barrel in an easy to access spot, and make sure to keep a filter secured to the intake area to catch debris before entering the barrel.

    Simple water barrels gather at least a small amount of run off from rooftops.

    There’s been ample research into whether chemicals from petroleum-based shingles leech into the water collected. Findings continue to be within a safe range. Rain barrel water is usually slightly acidic which is excellent for nutrient uptake by plants.  In general, harvested rainwater is best applied at the soil level.

    As an extra safety precaution, you can wait to harvest produce watered with rainwater a full day after watering to benefit from the sun’s ultraviolet light disinfection of any possible contaminants. More information is available under “soak up the rain” on the EPA’s website.

    Permaculture In Practice

    At its heart permaculture is a commonsense approach to welcoming sustainable gardening practices into our lives. It also puts us in the mindset to react to our ever-changing environment with adaptive, fun, and imaginative solutions. It reminds us that everything, even us gardeners, are part of nature. Let’s get out there and harness our existing resources!

    Have I inspired you to Dig Into Permaculture?

    I originally wrote this article for Northern Gardener magazine, it appeared in a shorter form in the Spring 2024 issue.

    Michelle

    Organic Garden Pest Control

    Imported Cabbage Butterfly
    Imported Cabbage Butterfly

    The number and diversity of bugs that want to eat what you grow is truly staggering, but we’ll tackle organic garden pest control together.

    With new insects coming into our gardens every season (thanks climate change) it can seem like a losing battle.

    But looking at each insect as part of a larger ecosystem can calm fears and get us into the right mindset when finding yet another new bug eating our plants.

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    Vegetable Garden Design Basics

    Let’s get your garden dreams onto paper so you can make harvesting from your garden a reality this summer! A little planning can go a long way. To that end, I’ve created a step by step Garden Planning Guide for you.

    First – let’s get clear on what YOUR garden goals are. Setting an intention up front (and knowing it will change with/in the seasons) can be a welcome guidepost later in the planning process. Try to not to compare your gardens or goals to anyone else’s.

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    Soil Blocking for Seed Starting Success!

    Soil blocks produce some of the best transplants from seed starting I’ve ever grown. This is my hands down favorite way to start tomatoes, peppers and my earliest cold hardy crops.

    Soil and person using a soil blocker to start seeds

    The method uses a metal ‘press’ that you fill with an oversaturated (think cement slop for the right consistency) seed starting mix. You get this mix packed into the ‘press’ and push a lever to pop out the cutest soil cubes you ever saw. And if the mix is done right, they stick together great, even though it seems like they’re defying the laws of gravity.

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    Season Extension: Garden + Harvest into Winter

    One last harvest deep into winter from all my veggies grown under cover

    Fall temps can quite literally cool our northern garden jets once fall hits its stride and apple season arrives. But for those of us that enjoy those frost sweetened crops and don’t mind gardening into the cool of autumn, Season Extension opens another mini-season of gardening and harvesting!

    For those just getting started on season extension, you may be wondering why we bother with this extra work?

    For me the reason is clear – by keeping plants alive in the ground, it allows them to hold onto their nutrients, compared to if we harvested at the first sign of frost. Food loses around 30% of its nutrients within three days of harvest…

    Practicing season extension can add weeks or even months of harvesting FRESH FOOD from your garden. And isn’t harvesting healthy food one of our main goals?

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    The Amazing Aronia Berry

    If you love growing beautiful medicine that also attracts the pollinators, then let me introduce you to Aronia Berry, aka Chokeberry. Actually, you may have already met Aronia Berry while walking in the woods or edges of prairies in the Midwest of America.

    Officially named Aronia melanocarpa, this cold hardy North American native woody shrub is worth adding to your landscape for its adaptability, form, fall color, and, of course, its fruits!

    Knowing + Growing

    The Aronia Berry tends to stay around 8 feet tall (depending on variety) and is much less picky about soil as it has deeper roots than the Elderberry. They are hardy to -40F or USDA Zone 3. They also don’t have any pest issues and are disease resistant.

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    Harvesting from Your Garden

    Harvesting from your garden is the moment we’ve all been waiting for!

    You’ve probably heard it’s best to harvest from your garden in the morning. Maybe you’ve also heard not to harvest from your garden when wet… These can seem contradictory especially on damp, dewy mornings. But there’s more behind the ‘not wet and not wilted’ reasoning.

    I’m sharing some best practices to harvest lots of delicious and nutritious food to make your garden healthier and more productive.

    Vegetable harvesting  spread out in front of a garden gate

    Why Not When Wet?

    We should generally hold off harvesting from our gardens until plants are dried off because when we open a wound on a plant from harvesting by cutting or breaking off we’re leaving an entrance on the plant for diseases.

    Fungal and bacterial diseases (blight, powdery mildew, rust, etc.) multiply while the leaves are wet. So, the chance of them getting directly into a wound is greater with a wet plant as well. This timing also makes it harder for the plant to fend off the diseases in general.

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    Growing Joi Choi + Recipe

    Let’s get you growing Joi Choi! This is the Pak Choi (aka Bak Choy) everyone can (and should) grow.

    Close up of Joi Choi pak choi plant growing in garden

    There are few veggies that bring me as much JOI in the garden and on my plate as this veggie, so I’m declaring myself a founding member of the Joi Choi Fan Club! She’s as delicious as she is beautiful!

    This has consistently been one of the easiest veggies to grow. It is ready also one of the fastest maturing early spring veggies, ready to harvest within 30 days of transplanting in all but the coldest spring weather. This means I can usually get at least three successions of Joi Choi in each season in my zone 4 gardens.

    Read more about Succession Planting HERE

    It is way more heat tolerant than other Pak Choi I’ve tried. Meaning it keeps growing a lot longer, and therefore bigger before it bolts. I mean look at those Thick stalks! All that stem equals weights of close to 2 lbs. per average plant if harvested all at once. Last fall I harvested a single Joi Choi that was over 4 lbs heavy and still tender and crisp in October!

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    Cucumber Comparison

    Cucumber slices of different varieties of cucumber! Marketmore, Armernian, Dragon's Egg, Mini Muncher cucumbers
    Taste testing tray- Left to Right: Telegraph, Dragon Egg, Mini Munch, Armenian

    We love growing cucumbers! But there are many differences, so let’s do a cucumber comparison.

    They’re a favorite of the vegetable garden and one of the homegrown treats my kids most impatiently look forward to munching fresh off the vine—as well as sliced (with ranch)—then fermented and pickled all winter long.

    Needless to say, we grow a lot of cucumbers!

    *This post includes affiliate links*

    There are different cucumber varieties including slicing, English (burpless), pickling, and then you can get into the specialty varieties that have been saved for their unique characters for centuries. These specialty varieties have a special place in my heart.

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    Growing Ginger in the North!

    Like anything you grow at home- ginger just tastes better than store bought. And with how much I love ginger’s bold and distinct flavor of course I grow it. Plus, growing an exotic, tropical plant up in zones 3 and 4 is pretty darn empowering.

    Then there’s the fact that most ginger sold in the U.S. is imported from China, Brazil or Thailand…and has been grown without much regulation and then shipped thousands of miles. Add in that is a beautiful plant that smells amazing and you’ve got to try growing this at least once!

    Ginger Botany

    Zingiber Officinale roscoe
    Classified as an aromatic herb, the part of the ginger plant we most often eat is  called a rhizome, the underground stem of a plant. But with homegrown ginger you can enjoy the stems as well- I chop the stems and enjoy them in tea!

    Native to Southeast Asia this plant likes if hot and humid. So if you have a greenhouse you’re a step ahead, but dedicating your warmest space to this plant should get you a happy harvest too. Growing ginger is an 8-10 month project, so we try to get started at the end of January here in Minnesota zone 4. And yes, these plants will be LARGE before they head outside, so plan for space similar to a tomato and they may even have to stay inside longer.

    Here’s A Ginger Growing Timeline

    • Jan 20-Feb 20- Start soaking your rhizomes
    • Jan 27- Feb 27  pot up into soil, in a tray to sprout
    • March 1-15 pot up again into deeper pots with ample space
    • June 1- 15 Once temps are 65+F outside, you can move to final growing space outdoors

    Growing Ginger

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